Norway’s fjords by rail and ferry: a slow guide

Norway’s western fjords are one of the few places where public transport is the scenic option. Trains cling to the mountainsides, ferries glide past waterfalls and every connection seems designed for the view.

Start in Bergen

Give yourself two nights. Walk the wooden wharf of Bryggen early, before the cruise passengers arrive, and ride the funicular up Mount Fløyen for sunset.

The Flåm railway

From Myrdal the little green train drops 860 metres in twenty kilometres, stopping at the Kjosfossen waterfall. Sit on the left side on the way down.

Book the Nærøyfjord ferry, not the express boat. It is slower, quieter and passes within touching distance of the cliffs.

On to Geiranger

In summer a bus and ferry combination takes you over the Trollstigen road and into the Geirangerfjord. Stay at least one night so you see it without the day crowds.

When to go

Late May to early September. June has the longest days; September has the fewest people and the first autumn colours.